BendPak HDSO14P 14,000 lb Four-post Car Lift

Whether it fits your building

We do not currently hold the manufacturer's overall height or minimum ceiling height for this model, so this listing does not state one. A ceiling-height figure guessed from a similar lift is the most expensive wrong number in this category, and we would rather show the gap.

What we can tell you is how to work it out. Measure your own ceiling to the lowest obstruction, not to the drywall: the garage door track, the opener rail, lights and ducting are routinely two to six inches lower than the ceiling. Ask us for this model's figure and we will get it from the manufacturer before you commit to anything.

Floor requirements

In most configurations this style of lift is free-standing and spreads its load across four feet rather than concentrating it into anchors, which is precisely why it suits a garage whose slab is an unknown quantity.

Free-standing does not mean it can go on anything. The floor still needs to be level and sound, and if you intend to store one car above another the load is doubled and permanent rather than occasional. Sloped garage floors are common and matter more here than on a two-post.

Power supply

We do not yet hold the confirmed electrical requirement for this model. Most lifts in this class run on either 110V single-phase or 208-230V single-phase, and the difference is not academic: 208-230V is a dedicated circuit and an electrician's visit rather than an existing garage outlet.

Ask us and we will confirm the voltage, phase and recommended breaker from the manufacturer before you order.

What the capacity figure means

14,000 lbs is the total rated capacity of the lift, not a figure per arm, per post or per wheel. Divide it and you will talk yourself into a lift that is too small.

Check it against the heaviest vehicle you own, not the one you drive most, and check the actual curb weight rather than the marketing name. A "half-ton" pickup has not weighed half a ton in decades: a modern crew-cab half-ton runs comfortably past 5,000 lb before you put anything in the bed, and a three-quarter-ton diesel can pass 8,000 lb empty. The naming refers to a payload class from the 1950s and it misleads people into undersizing a lift almost every week.

Who this capacity suits

This rating is bought for real weight: heavy-duty pickups, loaded work vans, service bodies, light commercial. It carries genuine margin over anything a passenger car can throw at it.

Buy it because you lift heavy vehicles, not for reassurance. Higher capacity comes with more structural mass, a larger footprint, usually a higher power requirement, and a higher installed cost. On a passenger-car-only garage, the extra rating buys you nothing you will ever use.

Locks, cables and what actually holds the car up

A widespread misconception is worth clearing up: on a two-post lift the equalisation cables synchronise the two carriages so they rise together. They do not hold the vehicle up. The hydraulics raise it and the mechanical safety locks hold it. Cables stretch over time and need adjusting, and a stretched cable causes the carriages to drift out of level rather than dropping the car.

Raise the lift until you hear the locks engage, then lower onto them before going underneath. Every time. If the lift settles noticeably overnight, that is a hydraulic seal or a valve, not the locks doing their job, and it is a service item rather than something to live with.

Stacking two vehicles

Parking one car above another is the main reason four-post lifts are bought for home garages, and it is the application where ceiling height decides everything. You need the height of the lower vehicle, plus the runway structure, plus the height of the upper vehicle, plus enough clearance to get the upper one on and off without touching anything.

Measure both cars. People calculate with the sports car and then find the SUV is the one that needs to go underneath. It is also worth thinking about which vehicle you will want to drive on a Tuesday evening, because the one on top is not the one you take out casually.

Key features and what the parts are called

Lift listings assume you already speak the language, so here is the vocabulary you will meet on this one. The power unit is the motor and pump assembly, usually single phase, that drives hydraulic cylinders; that is what raises the lift. The lock release is the handle or lever that disengages the mechanical safety locks so the lift can be lowered, and on a two-post it must release both columns together.

On a two-post, width between columns and drive-thru clearance are the two figures that decide whether a wide vehicle can get in and whether its doors will open. On a four-post, the equivalents are width between runways and overall length, and the ramps at the approach end are what you drive up. Adapters and pads sit between the arms and the vehicle: rubber pucks for pinch welds, tall adapters for trucks with high frames, frame cradles for specific makes. Most lifts ship with a basic set and most people end up buying one more.

What is built from what matters too. Columns and runways are formed steel, and heavier gauge steel is most of what you are paying for as capacity goes up. Lifting time is the seconds from floor to full height under load, which is a design choice rather than a quality signal: a faster lift usually means a bigger motor or a smaller cylinder bore.

Certification

We do not currently hold ALI certification status for this model and we are not going to guess at one.

Certification attaches to a specific model at a specific capacity, not to a manufacturer, so the absence of a statement here means we have not checked the directory yet rather than that the lift has failed anything. Home use in the US does not generally require a certified lift; a commercial shop often finds that its insurer, landlord or state rules do. If that is you, ask us and we will check this model against the ALI directory before you specify it.

Before ordering: the checks worth doing

Five minutes here saves a return, and this is the checklist we work through with anyone who calls.

Verify concrete thickness where the lift is going, not where it is convenient to measure. A drill test gives you depth; a core sample gives you depth and strength. Confirm the electrical supply, including whether it is single phase and what amp circuit is available, because 208-230V single phase is a dedicated run rather than an existing outlet. Measure the bay, not just the ceiling: width, length, and the route the crated lift takes into the building. Weigh the vehicle, using its curb weight rather than its marketing name. And check the size of the space around it, because a lift you cannot walk around is a lift you will resent.

Send us those five answers with an enquiry and the reply will be useful rather than a brochure.

How it gets to you

This is a freight shipment, not a parcel. It travels on a pallet on an LTL truck, and two things decide whether delivery day goes well.

First, a liftgate. Without a dock or a forklift, a truck cannot get a pallet to the ground, and a residential address almost never has either. Price the liftgate in rather than discovering it. Second, inspect before you sign. Note any damage on the delivery receipt and photograph the pallet as it comes off the truck. A clean signature makes a transit damage claim substantially harder, and lift shipments do arrive damaged often enough that this matters.

What the market charges

Across the 51 lifts we list in this capacity band the market runs $3,699 to $35,995, with a median of $9,650. This one sits around the middle of that.

Our price is the median of what independent US dealers currently list for this exact model. It tells you what the market costs; it is not a quote from us, and it will not be until we have confirmed freight to your address and a lead time we can hold to.

Who makes it, and can we get it

BendPak appeared in none of the seven independent dealer catalogues we surveyed, which points to distribution controlled through authorised dealers only. That makes them harder to source than the open-distribution brands and it is worth knowing before you set your heart on this model. We have applied through the proper channel; until that is agreed we are not an authorised dealer and will not say otherwise.

Installation

We do not install. What we will do is tell you exactly what this model needs from your building so you can brief your own contractor, which is normally faster and cheaper than a national install service.

For anything anchored, the concrete work and the anchoring are the parts to get done properly. Manufacturers publish an installation manual with the anchor specification, the embedment depth and the torque figure, and those are not suggestions. If a manual requires a trained installer, we will tell you that rather than let you find out from the warranty.

Keeping it right

The routine is short and skipping it is how lifts get dangerous. Check that the safety locks engage audibly on every position. Check cable tension and adjust when the carriages drift out of level. Grease the slider blocks or the columns to the manufacturer's schedule. Watch for hydraulic seep at the cylinder and the fittings.

ALI publishes an inspection standard, ANSI/ALI ALOIM, and an annual inspection by a qualified inspector is normal practice in a commercial shop and a good idea in a home garage. It is also the paperwork your insurer will ask for if anything ever happens.

Frequently asked questions

Other lifts at this configuration